From Howick To Craster - a tale of a man and his dog!

The sky was as grey as my mood, so I suggested a short walk to the coast, which was a mile following the 'Long Walk' from Howick Hall Gardens.

My wife wasn't keen, though suggested Robson's Kippers of Craster ... saying if I turned North at the Howick Haven I may be able to 'bag' one or two kippers for tea? I'd need to set a good pace, she suggested ... 'You may get there before they close!' 

I looked at the dog as she eyed me expectantly as I rose from my chair. Besides the grey colour in the sky, it was a fair June day, and I'm sure the dog would enjoy a little more exercise ... 'There's always the Jolly Fisherman in Craster?' Suggested Sue.

That moment for me solved the question of 'do I stay or do I go'.

The beautiful mature woodland of Howick Hall's 'Long Walk' was the starting point, an easy level-ground trail lined with Rhododendron and native trees, dotted with many shrubs and exotica collected from around the world by the current Earl Grey. As dog and I followed the gentle flow of Howick Burn for about one mile East, we eventually met the mouth of at the North Sea where we turned left, due North following a picturesque dedicated pathway, reaching Howick Seahouses Farm, an easy half a mile walk, with pastures to our left and to our right looking more splendid farmland the vision of wonderful energy as the North Sea crashed against the rocky shoreline at low tide.

On reaching Howick Seahouses Farm, I (we) opted for the East-bound coastal walk instead of the roadway headed in the same direction. The iconic Bathing House, silhouetted against the ocean vista in dappled sunshine, was the target before heading North once more, two miles to our destination of Craster and the Kipper sheds. I was starting to feel hungry already ...

The Northumberland Coastal Path, Howick to Craster, is a truly invigorating walk for those looking for a little drama offered by Cullernose Point, its abundance of sea birds and the enticing vision presented by the ruin of Dunstanburgh Castle, some two miles, easy pace, (45mins?) in the distance ... 

Dunstanburgh was tempting, although my target was the Kipper Sheds and the purchase of enough provisions for three that very evening!

The walking pace became a little quicker now, the breeze now fresh as a little closer we were to the sea ... then, in the distance, I glimpsed the Fishermans Arms, no more than a mile ahead! Do I call in for a swift thirst-quencher?

Best not, I thought to myself ... I'll save the bonus until the kipper collection.

So onward, walking past the sunlit homes dotted along the Craster coastline, to right opposite The Jolly Fisherman where stood Robsons Kipper Sheds. I looked at my watch ... 4.14, surely still open for a famished walker and dog ...

We strode on, left into the kipper yard, but only to find the trade counter was closed!  'That's blown it!' I thought to myself. 

I thought perhaps I could make my way onto Dunstan, and see if Jane at Beach and Quiet had a spare Kipper (or three!) No, silly thought, too presumptuous ... besides, I was thirsty now, the dog had become grumpy, so I was sure my companion could use a drink. We made our way to the beer garden of the local pub, turning the corner when a shout rang out!

"You both took your time, didn't you?"

Sue and her father had beaten us to it, kippers collected, refreshments on the table.  What are friends for, I thought to myself. Happy we were at The Jolly Fisherman.

Charlie Kenny, lives in Howick, after a lifetime spent in publishing, he helps people write their 'stories' and here is his idea of a heavenly day on the Northumberland Coast ...